I have a 1995 z28 and after the  jan 07 issue came out I tackled the header job.. and  it really was not to bad.   but my furture plans for my car is a nice heads cam package.   I want  a n/a setup . thats why i think you should do a  heads/cam package on the formula. like a lt1 -LE3 kit form http://www.eportworks.com  

also...  maybe some free mods or even some weight saveing   for the lt1.  
-chris  cbarberusmc@hotmail.com  

I also agree with Chopstix and being a student of the LT1 i would do a heads and cam setup.  But whats up with the ignition issue?.  Did yall get that straitened out.  Did you change the optical sensor in the opti.  Stop throwing parts at it!  

I just want to know whats the fastest times an all stock lt1 car can go ( drag strip )?  

Scott, my car was in your mag a couple months back (GMHTP budget 9sec *** and I have been messing with these LT1's for 5-6yrs so I know a little about them. I can give you a good combo for a solid performing 11sec N/A LT1 car that would be street worthy and not break the bank. My car ran 10.20's@133mph on the the stock 10bolt with 3.42's in it with a 355" LT1, ported LT1 castings, off the shelf CC306 and some n2o so shoot me ane-mail and we can talk. Later  Clint Schexnayder  

Thanks Clint, I remember...great car. I hope to build the Formula as smartly and cost-effectively as you built yours. After much debate, I think I've got a progression and a combination that will work real well, so stay tuned.  

LT1 stock weak point is the crank as 500rwp is about the max safely, internals up to 550 maybe 600 from all i've read.

Here's a look at my project LT1:1996 TA Covert, under 10,000 mile motor.
LT1 Hot Cam Kit,SLP Cold Air     Induction,Airfoil,Underdrives,MSD 9AL Ignition,Chip,Ceremic Headers to 3" Y-pipe back to single hi-flow coverter and Borla Cat Back System. Considering minor bolt-on they said it was putting out good power for LT1 with what it had,331.49@rwhp and 359.24@rwTorque. I had a 175hb wet/dry with 150hp pill installed already but first time we went to use it a nitrous line was blown, a 100$ item, I sold my LT1 Nitrous system to them for 600$ labor value in what is gonna be my soulution.

The $6,000 solution cost including Install and tune.  

And it came in the form of a 3yr warrentied PROCHARGER PSC-1,10psi pully and 3" Tubeing Aluminum Intercooler Rated up to 825hp cooling.We went with 42lb. fuel injections and dumped the Fuelmassager unit that allows you to use stock 24lb injections.
They are Procharger and forced induction specialist on Ford and GM. My TA is in the shop as I type this getting the PSC-1 installed, yes it broke the bank but this will get me to where I want to be high 11's on street tires mid 10 with New Moser Rear End and 3.73 w/slick. He is more worried about haveing to detune it because of to much hp on stock engine. The estimate st 10psi is 60-70% of rwhp gain.
At only 50% that is 495rwp which was estimate with 8psi pully 50-55% but i wanted to be sure to crack that magic 500 number. He said it would be capable of pushing out 550rwhp but I want to hit the 515-525rwhp with 575rwtorque to stay in reasonable safe range,him also he dosn't want to see the car in the shop within a month with a snapped crank. Part 3 next  

Sping high 9sec LT1 for under 10,000$ total est..BMR frame ties will be going in before it even see's a pair of slicks.I want to be able to open my door after i launch lol.Spring 08 the Moser 9" with 3.73 will be installed,driveshaft loop etc.Motor will be at about 525rwhp 575 rwtprque
Also a bigger stall will be going in it then its current 2200.
LT4 Eldebrock Performace Intake $450
LT4 AFR ALuminum Heards 2.20/1.60  1,759pr.

Possibly a 5140 Forged crank
Car will be daily driver with over 630rwhp and hopfully 700rwtorque .

There many gone this route before me and achevie 9's in there daily driver withe exception of swapping out tires at the end the day/night.

I will post dyno of my LT1 afer first PSC-1 installed is tuned and finished. Then Spring dyno after LT4 heads and LT4 Intake..

Thanks, MattG   1996 TA Covertablie Triple Black. 66,000 Body mile 10,000 Motor Miles.  

Upadate still in the shop. Got inital read and calibration before my ecu flash rom burnt. It only running 4 measly psi, they have a leak somewhere according to prochager cause I ordered the 10psi pully.


Good news with only 4psi, LT1 hot cam kit, Headers full 3" exahust its hitting 450rwhp and 460rwtorque. And thats with only 4 psi and 6 psi more to go to get to 10psi range which the pully rated at is at. So easy talking over the 500+ 500+ range. Finished product

So I play waiting game /sigh  

Scott,

Cadillac STS 93-95 All the Cadillac forms  are asking for performance So why not give them some! Sites I found that may get you excite. Chrfab, Fastchips, Wester Garage.
Let me know what you think.

Craig  

Hello,
I,m very interested in 11's on motor,Has anyone tried the new Dart 180cc Lt1 Pro One heads. Dart claims 270cfm through the intake @ .550"  

I AM TRYING TO PUT A 95 LT-1 IN MY 67 CONVERTIBLE CAMARO. THE ENGINE HAS FACTORY ALUM HEADS. I WANT TO UPGRADE THE CAM WITHOUT CHANGING THE TORQUE CONVERTER. I HAVE A ZZ-4 CAM HERE THAT IS AT .050 208/221 & 474/510 LIFT WITH 112 LOBE SEPERATION. WILL THIS BE A GOOD UPGRADE I KNOW I WILL HAVE TO INSTALL THE LONGER DOWEL ON THE CAM, BUT WILL THE FACTORY VALVE SPRINGS BE OK? THANKS BRENT  

I'd recommend calling up Thunder Racing and picking up a CC304 or perhaps that new 218/224 duration XFI cam as well as a set of Comp 918 valve springs if you are going to change the cam. I assume you want something mild and streetable, both those cams should do the trick. Besides the dowel pin, the ZZ4 cam is not going to give you a whole lot of improvement over stock.  

Id like to see an all-motor, non-stroker LT1 run 11's. I did it, untuned, with the HR-13 cam from comp cams.  The car was untuned, 6 spd. stock ported heads and with stock Opti and 1.5RR. Thats an Idea. Im sure you guys can get more power than my limited budget too.  

I would say a 11 second street car is easy to build. I had a cam only car with long tube headers, 4.10's, stall, some suspension work and nitrous. It would go 11.20's on a 150 shoot and I pushed it into the tens with some bigger jets.
If your going to build a motor I would set it up for a healthy shot of nitrous and go for bottom ten's or even high nine's.

Thanks for keeping the good articles coming.
Mike