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Hi everyone. Im a chevy enthusiast who has built several custom hot rods using SB and BB chevy engines. Had a couple Fords even. In fact Ive hadn't owned a new factory stock car or truck ever. I prefer to take old stuff and rebuild it while making some modifications along the way. ![]()
My last work truck, a plain jane '76 Silverado that had been severely lightened and back halfed (mini tubbed), fitted with a full roll cage, an East Coast Customs Wild ground effects body package, custom paint, Stull Grill, Weld Drag Lite Wheels wrapped in BFG's, 4 speed linko, 4 link triangulated air ride rear, 4" drop Bell Tech spindles and tubular A-arms, complete Baer Brake system, 250 HP Nitrous kit atop a 427 CI Small Block pushing over 600 RWHP before the nitrous hit. I never installed the NOS bottles because it was already beyond a fast ride, IMO, it was flat out dangerous. Dyno'd at 695 HP, 650 FPT at 7200 RPM and red lined at 9500 RPMs.
Straight up, it was built to near show quality, only I drove it daily to and from appointments. Now one might think its cool to sport around in, but it made me feel uncomfortable as a professional contractor to constantly explain to new customers the noise and/or being asked if I was a drug dealer (I got that alot).
So when I went looking for a company truck in '97, ie contractors cadillac, I had 3 objectives.
1. Must look Professional. Something almost new and not to flashy.
2. I wanted a 3/4 ton+ 2WD full size Chevrolet. With 4WD Id be too tempted to go off roadin with it and likely tear it up. And
3. I wanted Diesel Power, PRIMARILY so I'd keep my fingers out of it. I figured I'd let the GM professionals handle the maint and repairs of it.
So when I spotted an extended cab '95 Silverado 3500 TD one ton dually with all the bells and whistles, I overlook'd the flawless fire engine Red paint, chrome wheels, chrome bumpers, aftermarket hood and window deflectors, did I mention the plush leather interior. ![]()
The low milage (68,000 miles), the 100,000 mile factory warrantee still in effect, fully loaded, had a sweet tow package that included a Class 1 reese reciever hitch, HD Chrome step bumper and trick fold down fifth wheel set, and my bed cover fit perfectly was an added bonus. But what pushed me over the top was the fact I could buy it for $8500.00 below the blue book value at that time. I bought it for $18,000 when the bank valued it at $26,500. A new truck with simular options in '97 was over $40,000. Now a new one with all these options will cost ya nearly $50,000.00...
Anyhow, the truck ran awesome, no glitch's to speak of except they could never get the service engine soon light (SES) to stay off. The SES came on at 72,000 miles
after experiencing a heart stopping moment, and the SES hasn't gone off since! Driving home one afternoon shortly after purchasing the truck, it went to violently bucking and kicking, sounded god aweful, like someone was in the engine beating it with a 10 pound sledgehammer for a couple of minutes, definitely not your normal diesel engine noise or rattle and Im thinking I done blew it up or something. When as quickly as it started banging and running really rough, it stopped and started purring like it always has.
Took it to the GM shop immediately, they diagnosed it as BAD FUEL and charged me nearly $400 to flush the entire system, only at the time I didn't think it was a fuel problem but Im not a professional diesel mechanic either so I took GM's word for it and the truck was now running fine.
Remember that tid bit cause GM figures out what it really was in Oct 04 which I'll be getting to later.
Every time I went in then as I do RIGHT now for routine maint, I mention the SES, and I recall replacing a host of parts (all of them I paid for) early on in an attempt to extinguish the SES, only it never FIXED it.. The SES would go out that afternoon only to be shining bright the next day...
Eventually, I thought of the SES as an idiot light and ignored it.....
Then in Oct 04, with 265,000 miles. I had it towed in (first time the truck ever failed to immediately start) and this GM shop diagnosed it as a defective FIP, an $1800 repair which I was fully prepared for. You see, while having routine maint (oil change) done at 105,000 miles, only then did the professionally trained GM Techs figures out why my SES light is on, I need a new FIP or so they said. I came in for regularly schelduled maint, trucks running perfectly, yet GM was telling me I now need a $2400 repair???
After some discussion, Im told I can drive it safely as is. Worse that could happen is it leaves me stranded and it will have to be towed in and thats exactly what I did at 265,000 miles. Why the GM professionals failed to mention at 105,000 miles the FIP was STILL under warrantee is beyond me!! I only found that out Oct 04, apparently GM had extended the warrantee to 120,000 miles!!!
Couldn't be the fact that the original GM service center I went to all the time already had R&R'd the FIP 3 times, R&R'd the turbo charger twice, R&R'd the intake manifold twice, R&R'd the waste gate valve 3 times, and numerous parts while under
"warrantee" (Milking GMCorp IMO, I'll come back to this in a sec) just before I bought the truck off a used car lot some 50 miles away and I just happen to take it back where originally purchased and all the previous warrantee work was done so that GM shop had intiment knowledge as well as a complete history of my truck long before I ever rolled into there service bay at 72,000 miles.
So when this new GM shop told me I need a new engine at 265,000 miles, I asked why. GM's reply was it seems whom ever replaced the FIP last used a heli coil to improperly repair the intake which significantly weakened the internal boss which broke off and it appears your engine ingested a chunk of aluminum the size of a golf ball. He went on to say a remanufactured engine plus the new FIP will cost about $7500.00.
Im like, WAIT A GD MINUTE. Yesterday its an $1800.00 FIP, now its a $7500.00 for a remanufactured engine? Only people to ever touch the truck have been authorized GM service centers and I haven't never had any engine work done WHAT SO EVER so an authorized GM Service Center caused this engine damage. The GM Tech replied, NO WAY that's the stock pump, they dont last that long and can you prove a GM shop did the last FIP? I said, Infact I can buddy, got the serial # of the 3rd pump that was replaced under warrantee on Jan '97 at 67,500 miles on it right here along with a complete service history since the truck was NEW. Infact, my records show the intake was replaced for the 2nd time at 56,000 miles. He didn't expect that answer, and I used his own words when I contacted GMCorp raising cane...
I demanded that GMCorp fix my truck, there professionals jerry rig'd it, NOT ME and I can prove it.
After a few conference calls between GMCorp, that GM Shop, and myself along with some photographic evidence proving my case (still got the pics), GMCorp and I settled on a 60/40 split on the factory cost of a NIC long block and the installation. I agreed and went ahead and installed all new related engine components (FIP, injectors, glowplugs, water pump even, everything the GM professionals suggested)to finish assembling the long block. That bill when all was said and done,, $7778.00 was my portion. In the process, the GM shop broke my grill and hood bug deflector only to claim it was all like that when it arrived.
Now I got a new engine, shouldn't have a problem with it for another 100,000 miles or so I thought. Immediately it starts overheating, displays a lack of power, its noisy, and its billowing black smoke when ever you just pull away from a stop light.
I wasn't like that before the new engine, remember the one with all the "internal damage"? Yet it ran much much better than this new engine ever has! The truck was in Nov 04 as it is now, borderline reliable and forget aboutpulling my 18,000 pound enclosed Cargo Trailer with it.
So I take it back to the same GM shop who by now is looking to break one off in my ash cause they made no profit from the engine job. They tell me its overheating cus the clutch fan is shot, wobbling is how they wrote it up and my turbo charger is now defective ie its not supplying enough air... GM's estimated cost of that repair,, $2500.00 so I seek a second opinion from a turbo specialist who tells me the turbo is fine however the FIP is severely out of time. When I relay the message along with a computer print out stating the FIP is out of time, the GM guy gets pissy and tell me they cant help me unless I clear the turbo code and he aint got time to argue with me about it.
So I take it home, order up a $450.00 thermostatically controlled dual hurricane fan w/ aluminum shroud set up and begin to install it. When I go to remove the wobbly clutch fan, I discover the clutch hub was falling off the waterpump, those 4 bolts I removed by hand!! An item they just installed a month before! Explains why its wobbling, and although it felt like new I went ahead and installed the electric fans. After a month and the Temps didn't drop at all, I reinstalled the old clutchfan and fan shroud as to keep the truck totally stock.
Then in June 06, I took it in to this same GM Shop to have my AC fix'd which coincedently quit working sometime during the winter the new engine was installed. They told me it would be $800.00 to fix, and I authorized the bill.
They call me, tell me its ready and I can come pick it up. So I get there, go in to the service bay, ask for and get my bill go to the cashier, pay the bill, get my keys and leave. As Im exiting the parking lot, I turn on the AC, only it isn't working so I immediately turn around and drive back into the service bay where the salesman dude greets me and before I can say a word, he tells me I need a $500 part to fix the problem. WHOAAA, why didn't you tell me that before now? I paid you $65.00 for the system diagnostic? Well we dont check that portion of system, he replied. What system is that, THE AC SYSTEM?
Dude, Im going on vacation next month and we planned on a rental car, but to kill 2 birds with one stone, I'd spend the rental car money on getting the AC fix'd and we'd drive the truck (thats how much my wife and I like the truck, its a cadillac IMO).
Had GM told me the bill was $1300.00 vs $800.00, I wouldn't have got it fixed and just stuck to our original plan.
Needless to say, I WENT OFFFFFFFF and was promptly escorted off the property by the sheriff and instructed not to return. I cant disrupt there place of business and if I do, I'll be taken to jail and charged for disorderly conduct. WTH, they can rip me off but I cant voice my opinion? PHUK GM.
Called GMCorp customer service, got ahold of some non english speaking outfit located in the phillapeans? Needless to say I got no where with it.
Then Sep '06, truck wont start, and is leaking what I thought was oil so I had it towed to the next GM shop 45 miles away.
They discover all my rubber hoses at the FIP are ROTTED, thats whats leaking and that will be another $1200.00 to fix. I asked why those hoses weren't replaced not 2 years before when the new engine was installed? He couldn't answer that, they weren't involved. I figured it was my fault cuz I didn't specifically tell them to change the rubber hoses when assembling the new engine.
So while they are fixing the rotted hoses, the mechanic notices alot of green dye leaking from the back of the AC compressor which isn't 6 months old, and by this time my blood is boiling so I tell them to not worry 'bout the ac, I'll fix it later.
Then in May 07, I take the truck to the new GM shop to get that portion of my ac thats busted and under 12/12 warrantee.
Only when they go to replace the compressor, its a napa aftermarket so this dealership wanted to charge me the labor to R&R the new but defective compressor PLUS another $150.00 to recharge the system... WHAT??? I dont put aftermarket anything on my truck. The only thing aftermarket is the current FIP, which a GM rep/tech told me was NO LONGER available through GM (discontinued), only to find out now that was BS too! When they called the other GM shop for the AC details, the shop manager (from the previous GM shop) remembers me fondly and he even said, RON always ask for genuine GM parts cuz he does alot of traveling and he doesn't want any parts and/or labor conflicts. When informed of the aftermarket compressor, he immediately agreed to pay that bill.
Now the July '07 episode of GM's TWILIGHT ZONE. Note- Long Block is still under factory warrantee.
July 3, truck starts and runs fine for @ 10 minutes then dies and refuses to start. Wait 10 minutes and this cycle repeats. Had it towed in to the GM shop 45 miles away.
July 5, GM diagnoses the problem as a defective ECM, its tripping the FIP so they R&R it on July 9.
July 10, they call to say the new ECM didn't fix it and there looking into it.
July 13, GM diagnoses the problem as a defective Stator Pump so they R&R that on July 17.
July 20, GM calls to inform me its still doing the same thing. Im told I need a new FIP so they R&R the entire pump on July 24 and to no surprise to myself, its still doing the same thing. I suspected then as I do now, its an electrical problem, loose ground, chaffed wire, or something along those lines. Thats why when they originally diagnosed the ECM, I didn't question it. To be honest, I thought I dodge a bullet (ie $1800 FIP).
Ive been complaining about my Cruise Control and other acc's working one day then not the next since having the engine replaced in Oct 04 yet they haven't been able to diagnose the cause of that trouble either and Im now thinking its all related.... I mean when your head lights, running lights, radio, and instrument panel go BLACK (as if I switched the key to off and shut off the headlights) while driving down the interstate at 5 am, yet the engine is running fine and as I go to exit the interstate and hit them annoying grooves, everything lit back up. Obviosly somethings not right with that....
Now Im growing majorly concerned cause my bill has grown to well over$2000.00 AGAIN yet its running just as it did before they ever touched it? Whats wrong with that picture?
July 27, GM called and said I now need a new timing chain and gear set which is covered under the existing engine warrantee (they acted like that was a good thing). At this point, Honestly, I think Im being punked and I'm pissed so I buy several Chiltons and GM Diesel Manuals to educate myself (thats what Ive been doing 24/7 for nearly 2weeks), taking a crash course in Diesel 101.
Im not claiming to be a diesel expert in any way shape or form but Im not COMPLETELY STUPID. Now armed with some knowledge I start asking questions, only Im getting no answers and/or the wrong answers...
July 24th, I called GM to find out the current status, STILL FUBAR. To ease my mind, they conferenced with a GM engineer who said to replace the FIP again and after doing so, its still exhibited the exact same symtoms it displayed DAY 1.
Now its July 30, and after replacing the FIP for the 2nd time, 3rd time if you count the stator pump, its still running the same and now a GM engineer is flying here to figure it out..
Excuse me but aren't they supposed to be trained professionals? Aren't they supposed to troubleshoot and diagnose the PROBLEM before they just start R&R expensive engine parts?
The timing chain (sloppy lose after only 45,000 miles?) controls all the TIMING EVENTS, and all the components I replaced are driven directly or controlled indirectly by that chain. while R&R the timing chain, they had to remove the Crank positioning sensor and now they cant seem to reset the timing properly without an expensive diagnostic tool (IMO, thats the #1 reason a GM engineer is coming, #2 is to train these idiots).
If the timing chain was found to be so sloppy loose that they couldn't time a new FIP properly , then it stands to reason my old FIP was out of time before they ever started swapping parts out which would explain why the ECM was shut'n off the FIP (its a built in safety feature found on this particular engine).
I also read that a simple air leak will display the exact symtoms my truck display'd initially and not 7 months ago they replaced all the FIP hoses. Is it all a coincedence?? I think not... What are the odds that all these inter related components fail at the same exact moment in time? Slim to none IMO...
IMO, I'm being punked for $2000.00 or MORE (it still aint fix'd) for a worn TIMING CHAIN that they still cant explain. It displayed far more slop at 45,000miles than my previous timing chain in my old engine showed after 265,000 miles.
My local VO TECH doesn't charge to train future mechanics, yet I feel Im PAYING GM to train these incompetent baboons who call themselves GM PROFESSIONALS.
Case in point. While inspecting the timing chain for myself, I noticed my parts scattered about here and there, some on the most disorganized work bench, some up under the front end on the floor, my water pump lay'n in the tool box, my clutch fan and the top half of my fan shroud placed atop my unprotected $1000.00 Fiberglass Bed Cover (my 8' trunk ), and when I peaked into the cab I noticed not one, but 2 GM SHOP REPAIR MANUALS stacked in the drivers seat with a 3rd manual opened up across the center console. When I took a closer look I saw a pile of greasy tools, a good handful of bolts and several filthy shop rags scattered about on both the front floor mats.
One other thing to note that I assumed was taught in auto repair 101, at least they did when I was ASE certified in General Auto Repairs in 1980.
I saw NO FENDER SKIRTS, could explain the greasy fingerprints and smudges all over the paint, grill and doors. Lets not overlook the greasy boot prints all along the top of my front chromed bumper. What? no stepping stools in this PROFESSIONAL GM shop. WTF???
I mean it looked like some hill billy red neck bullpooh.... And of course the mechanic working on my truck is always gone, "supposidely" off (in the middle of the week and this auto shop doesn't work weekends!), gone to lunch (@ 10 am), or off to the parts store.
GIVE ME A BREAK!!! So either they got a highly trained mechanic playing "go for", or they got a highly trained "go for" playing mechanic. I suspect the latter.
How many of yall know of any real PROFESSIONAL mechanics who only works from 9am to 3pm, gets 2 hour lunch's and fetches there own parts and/or supplies??????????????? Me either.
Thats why I think Ive been punked for $2200.00+. That chain drives all that pooh they initially DIAGNOSED as bad, yet they couldn't set the timing properly (ie the original problem) with all these new components without also R&R'ing the timing chain and gear set. And even after replacing the timing chain, it STILL DOES THE SAME *** THING.
I KNOW I CAN DO A BETTER R&R JOB IN MY FRICKEN DRIVEWAY!!!!!!! Only I dont know pooh about a diesel engine, more specifically the fuel system and it must be a bietch cuz its whopping GM's butt, and as usual its at my expense!
BELIEVE THIS, it wont be going back to any authorized GM shop ever again cuz its all just a clever scam hiding behind what was once a trusted and respected corporate logo. The engine is still under warrantee, thats the only reason GM has it right now and if found to be a warrantee related issue, I didn't want to further complicate matters by having this repair work performed elsewhere.
Please dont think Im some on going ranting wack job who thinks he knows everything. If I dont know, I'll tell ya. Im not going to start making pooh up or use fancy tech names with a bunch of mumbo jumbo to further confuse you. I know my own limitations, and I do seek out professional services in those areas I'm not qualified and/or comfortable doing. This is my company truck and its got to start everyday so I pay GM to take good care (or so I thought) of it as this pile of GM receipts and other supporting documentation confirms.
I figured GM built the truck so they "should" be the most qualified to properly service, troubleshoot, and/or repair the truck.. BOY WAS I EVER WRONG.
Im a professional contractor (for 18 years now) who is very much mechanically inclined. If I could wind the clock back, I might be a mechanic only I still hate working on greasy pooh all day. Every vehicle I own is in perfect running order, always well maintained and very CLEAN. I dont goober, Jerry rig, or band aide anything I do. When I check the oil, I want a rag to wipe the dip stick off, not my hands. You can eat off the engines and most of the undercarrages of all my vehicles. If you cant tell, Im a neat and most organized freak... Borderline Monk!
Forgive me if I insulted any members who may be a GM employee, perhaps maybe something Ive said may help you improve the services of your own shop..
SOMEONE, PLEASE HELP ME.... Sorry to introduce myself with a rant then beg for your help but Im at my wits end here.
Its not the truck thats disappointing me, rather its the GM professionals who again are fixing to break one off in my...
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Where to begin???
Short Version- Im sueing the authorized GM shop for $3000.00.
Long version- After $2400+ and 40 days in there shop, they wanted ANOTHER $800.00 and another week to make further repairs on completely unrelated components (turbo) even though my original problem wasn't fix'd yet ie truck was still shutting off. IMO, they were attempting to buy MORE TIME until they could figure it out!
When I then DEMANDED they return my truck, ONLY then do they inform me I also need new batteries.
Whats wrong with my batteries I ask, they then claimed the truck had arrived with 2 dead batteries so why was I only hearing of this now 40 PHUKIN DAYS LATER? What a BUNCH OF BULLSHIET!!!
I had to pay them $2420.00 dollars CASH to get my truck released and get this BULLSHEIT, suddenly my checks aren't good enough for 'em anymore. Aceholes were likely afraid I'd stop payment! Then when I went to leave, I had to jump it off to drive it home, didn't make it out of the fricken parking lot before it shut off again and all along the 40 mile drive back home it continued to just shut off numerous times.....
I managed to make it to AutoZone to replace the batteries. Afterwards autozone then checked the alt cause the gauge was reading low. They found the practically NEW alt too was TOOSTED! Then it continued to shut off as I drove it home only to die as I pulled into my driveway where it sat for a danm week till I could figure out what was wrong with it.
Why was it shutting off? With the help of a internet bud from an RC forum who just happens to be an 18 year GM employee who IS a real Diesel expert, we quickly diagnosed the OPSU as bad, so the LP wasn't working thus the IP was sucking the fuel all the way from the tank READ air was infiltrating the fuel system which scrambled the Optical sensor/PCM.
The PCM and IP's werent defective AT ALL, the only defect was the certified GM dumb ace idiots working on it!!!
Both the shop and GMCorp declined my request for a FULL refund, claiming excessive age and/or milage YET the engine was under a 3 year/50,000 mile FULL FACTORY warrantee AT THE TIME OF THE REPAIR! WTF?? Talk about your OXYMORON'S!!!
Why $3000.00? Let me break it down for you.
A. $2420.00- for the latest FIASCO. Neither the PCM or IP were defective cuz after GM replaced the PCM and IP 3 fricken times, the same exact "shutting off problem" still existed. When I demanded they install my old parts 21 days into this BULLSHEIT, they informed they couldn't because they had been sent in for cores therefor I gotta pay for the new parts I didn't fricken need!
B. $300.00- for my 2 toosted batteries and Alternator. Note- The GM Alterator wasn't 9 months old and it was installed by these same GM BOZO's! The 3 year old batteries the GM BOZO'S fried are the same as the new ones I have now, DuraLast Gold 1100 CCA read TOP SHELF $110.00 per batteries with an 8 year limited warrantee.
C. $325.00- It seems when they R&R'd the rotted fuel lines last year, they also R&R'd the LP without my AUTHORIZATION. I only discovered that by the P/L breakdown on page 3 of that $1206.00 invoice.
It seems they charged me $161.00 for the Lift pump and $162.50 for the labor to R&R it! 2.25 hours for a .5 hour task AT MOST!
Unknown to GM, the LP they removed had a lifetime garantee which I provided and had GoodYear install Sep '03. Get this, GoodYear only charged me $12.50 to R&R that LP and I got all the receipts to prove every bit of that shiet.... Had they called me as they should have to get the LP R&R authorization, I'd of told them that.
Get this, The code 78 (turbo) I've had for at least 3 years, originally MISDIAGNOSED by GM shop #1 as a $2400.00 Turbo charger which I declined.
GM shop #2 diagnosed it as a bad WG solinoid, bad WG actuator and a bad WG assembly which they wanted $600.00 to repair, again I declined. 2 authorized GM shops looking at the same truck/code, came up with 2 totally different answers, I mean who do you trust? NONE OF 'EM!!!!!
Let me tell you what the PROBLEM WAS ALL ALONG! I discovered both the WG solinoid and WG actuator vacuum circuits (vacuum lines) simply had BIG ACE HOLE in 'em right above the IP, right where them numb nutz had been working all along. READ- they didn't troubleshoot SHIET, they just started and/or wanted to R&R parts based solely off the diagnostic codes!
I spent $25.00 on the OPSU, about $10.00 for new vacuum hoses, $17.00 for a temp sensor, and about 4 hours and guess what? NO more trouble codes, no more SES light, no more overheating (turns out it never was overheating, just a bad sensor but GM wanted $450.00 to R&R the clutchfan which I also declined), no more black smoke, no more lacking power and I can now hear my turbo charger spooling up for the FIRST TIME in 12 fricken years read since I bought the truck.
Ive got all the reciepts to PROVE everything, I'm just waiting to hear from my lawyer to see if I cant sue GMCorp to recover some of the $21,000.00+ Ive spent just on the engine alone in the last 36 months at these 2 authorized GM shops! GMCorp has authorized these unqualified GM shops to RIP PEOPLE OFF and I feel GMCorp should now be held accountable.
I dont go to these stealersheits to buy a car so I dont care about the name on the sign. I/We go to these Authorized GM service centers cause that GMCorp logo hangin on the sign is supposed to assure me these shops know what the flip they are doing....
IIf I cant go after GMCorp directly in small claims court (no lawyers, no delays) for $4000.00, then Im filing another small claims case against GM shop #1 for $888.00.
Thats what they QUOTED me to fix my AC system, only they didn't fix it correctly and what they did do had to be REDONE less than a year later at GM shop #2. Seems GM shop #1 didn't bother to check the controls to see if all functioned properly. I dont get HI COLD air blowing out of my dash vents now, but turn the air off and hit the heater, the dash vents work??? Im told I now need another $500.00 repair to an actuator located somewhere under the dash.
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