need starting fluid to start tpi 5.7

car has been a problem since day one  

year make and model might help with the diagnostics..

check the fuel pressure with the engine running.. then turn the engine off.. does it stay above 30PSI with the engine off...  it should... for at least 10 minutes...

then ... turn the key on... without cranking the motor.. does the fuel come up to 38PSI in the first 2 seconds..

then turn it back off.. wait a few minutes..  then turn the key on and crank the motor... does the fuel pressure come up and stay up while cranking..????/

Why am i asking you to do these complex tests... it does require a 30 buck fuel pressure tester..

the fuel pressure regulator holds fuel pressure when the engine is shut off..  it will slowly leak down.. usually not below 20 psi..

the outlet on the fuel pump in the tank has a check valve built in...  these sometimes leak...

the plastic flex tube between the fuel pump and the sending unit will sometimes crack and leak.. the engine will be hard to start.. but it will start...

some models had a cold start injector.. but these only worked when the coolant temps were below 80F or so...  

i would probably continue to look at the live data stream from the ecm to the ALDL connector under the dash board...

here is a link to a chart that you should print the chart...    take the scan tool and copy the various readings from it on the proper line of the chart...

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/06/7e/6a/large/0900c15280067e6a.gif

this will give you an idea if the system is working properly...

i would also with the engine off.. grab the throttle lever...   open it slightly.. see if the shaft is loose in the bore...  this will create problems as the engine is not getting the proper amount of air it expects..

with the scan tool.. look at the throttle position sensor voltage...      open the throttle several times and let it back to idle...    it should return to the EXACT voltage...    if not.. . the throttle body might be worn..

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i would also invest in a 8 buck coil output tester...  the gap type not the light..  crank it open 3/4" ... see if you get a nice blue bright snappy spark ... when you crank the motor..    if you only get an orange spark.. and it will only fire a 1/2 inch.. change the coil...  weak coils make it really hard to start...

coils leak high voltage out the sides...  pull the coil cover and examine the sides of the round part of the coil core.. near the frame...  i bet that you will find white dust marks.. and white spots.. where the high voltage has been leaking..


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one more thing...   for now.. there are a whole bunch of other things to check...

with the scan tool   look to see if the ECM is seeing the cranking signal while the engine is being cranked...


no cranking signal.. no cranking /starting program from the computer...

you might also want to monitor the signals from the ecm to the injectors with a single NOID light.. while you are cranking the motor..  i have have ignition switch failures.. that also caused this...


since the motor in question came in 85 to 93/94 models.. as i recall..  these are OBD1...  scan tools are available.. new and used...  

89 pontiac gta  

fuel pressure regulator, coil, distributor, ecm,injectors are all new, hyper tech chip reinstalled, also, sometimes I won't get a crank at the key and sometimes when I do, it don't start. Touchy?  

  sometimes I won't get a crank at the key and sometimes when I do, it don't start

start with the battery cables...  make sure the terminals under the rubber are clean and then tight... hot water poured over the removed cable ends will soften the rubber so you can get the bolt out and peal the rubber over the terminal to clean it with a stainless steel wire tooth brush from the hardware or paint store..


then check the grounds at the engine block.... the big wire from the negative cable where it is bolted on... take it off and clean it.. and the mounting surface or stud...  again with the wire brush...

check the smaller wire from the negative cable to the inner fender.. make sure it is clean and tight where is it bolted to the body...

check the ground wires from the engine block  to the body....  they are there... usually on the back of the cylinder heads...

yes its a bunch of work...  but it has to be checked... something is not working right...
and missing or bad grounds can drive car owners crazy...

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i would also think that i would check drop the column... change the ignition switch...  the electrical part of it..

that could also be causing your problem..   there have been problems with them...

there are also problems with the bulkhead connections where the various circuits pass from the engine side to the interior...

you might also make sure that the top post on the starter solenoid is tight...  ........  much of the cars power is distributed from there...

i will see if i can find the proper wiring diagram...  

lets get the engine to crank every time first...   unless you want to use a rope around the pulleys like a mini bike...

here is the engine control wiring diagram...

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/08/e8/9c/large/0900c1528008e89c.gif

the lower right corer of this one has the starting circuits...

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/08/e8/9e/large/0900c1528008e89e.gif





this one is mostly lighting..

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/08/e8/9d/large/0900c1528008e89d.gif


you should print copies of all three...


if you look at the second diagram... you will see that the power for the cranking comes from the starter solenoid top post...     to the red wires on the side of the electrical part of the ignition switch.. then yellow wires to the start enable relay...(controlled by the vats system..)  then dark green and white to the neutral safety or clutch safety switch.. from there is turns purple to get to the S terminal on the starter...



seems the vats system will prevent the engine from cranking...  if the system is activated by a failure while the key is on..   does your security light come on...     does your car also have aftermarket alarm systems installed or prior installs that have been disconnected... sometimes they fail years later...